Ao Nang (Aonang, Ao Phranang) is the
busiest beach destination in Thailand's Krabi Province.
Formally Ao Phra Nang ("Princess
Bay") although everybody uses the short form,
Ao Nang is the most 'Westernized' beach in Krabi,
originally a backpacker hotspot but now moving slowly
upmarket as the airport brings in higher flyers.
While not quite as scenic as
Rai Leh, there is a good range of cheap accommodation,
many good restaurants, easy transport and travel/tour
agencies ready to cater to your every whim, making
it a good base for exploring Krabi.
Orienting yourself in Ao Nang is easy: almost everything
is located either along the beach, which runs west-east,
or along the Airport Road (Highway 4203) which goes
up north from the east end of the beach. Long-tails
arrive on the beach near the junction of the two
roads.
How to get here
By plane
Krabi International Airport is about 40 minutes
away by car. As of 2005, the local airport limo
monopoly charges a fairly steep 600 baht for a transfer
(up to 4 people). Many hotels will arrange a pickup
at similar prices on request.
Local buses run from Ao Nang to Krabi (40 baht)
and from Krabi to the airport (50 baht). The total
trip between Ao Nang and the airport takes little
less than 2 hours.
By boat
Rai Leh West and Ton Sai are only 10 minutes away
by long-tail. Boats leave constantly from the east
end of the beach and charge a flat 60 baht/person
during the day, slightly more at night. There is
no pier so expect to get at least your feet wet,
probably more.
There are also public ferry services to Ko Phi
Phi and Ko Lanta (usually twice daily), for which
any travel agent will be happy to sell you tickets
at around 200 baht/person.
Boats from Ko Lanta now arrive at the new jetty,
from there take a taxi (350 baht), or local bus
to Krabi (50 baht) and then on to Ao Nang (40 baht).
By songthaew
Shared pickup truck taxi to Ao Nang from Krabi town
is 50 baht and they depart all the time.
Getting around
Tuk-tuks in Ao Nang charge a flat 20 baht/person
for trips around town. Songthaews also run all across
Ao Nang onto the Shell Beach (See) and some all
the way to Krabi town, fares from 10 baht up depending
on distance.
Whare to see
Fossil Shell Beach (Thai Su-san Hoi, literally
"Seashell Graveyard"). Some 7 km west
of Ao Nang, this mildly traplike tourist attraction
has slates of compressed 40 million year old shellfish,
which bear not a small resemblance to concrete.
There's also a small grubby museum and a huge slew
of gift shops. Entry is a steep 200 baht for foreigners
- but only 20 baht for Thais.
Nopparat Thara Beach. Picturesque beach at
the western tip of Ao Nang, zoned as a national
park. During low tide you can walk up to some of
the nearby craggy limestone islands.
What to do
There is little to do immediately around Ao Nang,
but Rai Leh and Ko Phi Phi are just around the corner
and there are many tour operators offering activities
such as sea kayaking, scuba diving and elephant
treks.
Kon-Tiki Diving and Snorkeling Center, 290/20
Moo 2, Ao Nang, Tambon Muang [1]. 100% Scandie-run
5-star PADI dive center, but most european language
is available as well. Located in the heart of Ao
Nang and the only PADI Go Eco dive center.
Raya Divers, 1/2 Moo 5 Tambol Rawai (about
2 km up Airport Rd), tel. +66-76280074, [2]. 100%
Finnish-run 5-star PADI shop, although instruction
in English is also available. Good gear and an emphasis
on safety.
Rock Climbing - a day of rock climbing at
Rai Leh can be arranged by a tour operator in Ao
Nang. This can be convenient as the operator will
arrange transfers, lunch and as much climbing as
your limbs can handle. Most people find it just
as easy to wander over to Rai Leh or Ton Sai on
their own and organize an introductory course or
day trip on their own. Currently, there are no climbing
guides based in Ao Nang.
Eat
Budget
For cheap eats, there are a few street carts scattered
about, although most serve backpacker fare like
banana pancakes (15 baht a pop). The fried chicken
lady in front of the Tipa Resort does a pretty mean
som tam (papaya salad) at 40 baht though, and also
look out for the yellow-signed noodle stalls with
a "4" in a bowl as their logo, which dish
out a garlicky but tasty bamii muu daeng (roast
pork noodles) for 25 baht.
The Pad Thai served in in a stall named "Kai
Tieun Restaurant" is good and cheap. The noodle
itself is not spicy and you need to add the condiments
available on the table to make it spicy.
The stall in front of Adidas Store serves rice-type
lunches at 20-30 baht a box. The "Kao Nam"
(Similar to Nasi Briyani in Malaysia) is superb.
Be careful before ordering "Keng Mu" (Minced
spicy chicken meat with rice) though, be prepared
to gulp in lots of water to counter the spiciness.
Generally the places along the beach are more expensive
and the ones up the hill tend to be cheaper and
better value. Even up past McDonald's on the right
some do squid and fish at amazingly low prices.
Tonsai Restaurant, Ao Nang
Soi 15 (15 minutes from the beach up Airport Road).
Popular low-key eatery offering a good spread
of good Thai food. Most dishes around 50 baht.
The Boat Cafe on Airport Road (opposite
the 7-11) has no sign in English but is easily
recognizable from the old long tail boat outside
which they use to serve up thom yum and other
Thai soups at lunchtime. Dishes cost 20-35 baht,
and the best recommendation is the large number
of locals coming in for an evening meal.
One More Restaurant on Airport Road
(15 minutes from the beach up Airport Road on
the right side). Low-key restaurant serving a
variety of Thai dishes and seafood at affordable
prices. The staff here is incredibly friendly.