Ko Pha Ngan ( pronounced KOH
pa-nGan) is an island off the eastern Gulf
coast of Thailand, halfway between the islands
of Ko Samui and Ko
Tao. It is known as a land of coconut
trees and, above all, the world famous full
moon parties.
Koh PhaNgan is situated on
the north of Koh
Samui in the Gulf of Thailand. It is
approximately 12 kilometers from the nearest
border of Koh Samui and 100 kilometers from
the northeast of Surat Thani province. There
are six islands in Koh Pha Ngan group; Pha
Ngan, Tao,
Tae Nok, Tae Nai, Ma, and Nai Yuan.
Geography
2/3 of the Koh Pha Ngan is mountainous and
covered with dense forest. The part of the
east is covered with the series mountains
with open seas until to the mountain of
Luang in Surat Thani and Nakorn Sri Thammarat.
The beautiful gulfs and beaches located
on the west side. 70% of Koh Pha Ngan is
mountainous and significant source of rivers.
The important mountain peaks are Kao Rha,
627 meters, which is the highest peak in
the north, Kao Mai Ngam, 535 meters, in
the south, Kao Tah Luang, 478 meters in
the northwest, and Kao Lad Mai Keaw, 378
meters in the east of Koh Pha Ngan.
Koh Phangan Beach - Popular destinations
Thong
Sala - the island's "capital"
and main ferry port
Thong
Nai Pan - a scenic area on the northeastern
part of the island that includes the neighboring
beach resorts of Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai
and Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi.
How to get here
By plane
The closest airport is Ko Samui (USM) which
has frequent flights from Bangkok and Phuket,
daily flights from U-Tapao and Singapore,
and several direct flights each week from
Chiang Mai and Kuala Lumpur. Transportation
to the ferry dock is easy to find at the
airport. Ferries depart several times a
day with the last one around dusk.
By boat and bus
Buses arrive in Surat Thani, capital of
Surat Thani Province, from all over Thailand
and you will find yourself inexorably swept
up in the machine that will, several buses
and at least one ferry later, spit you out
on the rusty pier of Thong Sala.
Caution
is to be exercised when stowing valuables
on the bus: Keep all valuables with you
in the main cabin of the bus, and not below.
There have been reports of stolen goods,
so be aware, and don't leave cameras, credit
cards, or other such items in your bag-
it could get sifted through by someone.
Better yet, take a Thai Government bus
down to Surat Thani: this is widely regarded
as a less hassle filled voyage than the
Khao San Road (or other travel agent sold)
tickets.
There are also ferries (at least 3 a day)
from Ko Samui's "Big Buddha" pier
directly to Haad Rin. Ferries also leave
from Nathon and Maenam piers to Thong Sala
multiple times a day. (check schedules before
leaving.)
By train, boat and bus
Overnight train from Bangkok is an interesting
option. Trains arrive in Surat Thani or
Chumphon, and from there you can take the
usual bus, boat combo to Ko Samui and on
over to Pha Ngan. Purchase train-bus-boat
tickets from any of the travel agents in
Hua Lamphong station in Bangkok.
Getting around
By motorcycle
100-125cc motorbikes can be hired from around
150 baht/day; larger capacity models cost
300-1000 baht/day. Foreigners may be required
to leave their passport as a deposit. Even
though you don't need to present a drivers
license - learning how to drive a motorbike
in the hills of Haad Rin is not advisable.
Some rental shops overcharge for every
scratch or dent. They don't fix, but rather
replace the whole part - so note damages
to the bike on the rental contract.
Avoid riding at sundown, when the bugs
are out en masse, and result in brief periods
of riding blind, while you desperately try
to clear your corneas. Try not to go home
with a 'KPN tattoo' - this can either result
from your tender-skinned body sliding along
a bitumen road at high speed with few clothes
on, or from the inside of your leg touching
too hot exhaust pipe of the moped. King
Cobras on the road are extemely rare, appear
as large branches across your path from
afar, but may strike or coil themselves
around the axle of your bike if you're not
careful.
Care is needed if attempting to go over
the notorious Haad Rin hills, the roads
at the eastern side of the island, and north
of Haad Yao. Especially the "Hill of
Tears" (first steep ascend from Thong
Sala towards Haad Rin) needs caution - use
low gear only and rather have your passenger
walk, than bruised up.
Drunk driving in the West is illegal -
in Koh Pha Ngan it's suicidal. Better to
sit in the back of a taxi than hitting one
head on at night, or end up in hospital.
Wear a helmet, avoid riding in flip-flops
and stay within your limits. The slower
you drive, the less it's gonna hurt.
It is also possible to rent small Suzuki
jeeps, however you will find that you can
circuit the island in a day.
By songthaew
Songthaew pick-up truck taxis criss-cross
the island for around 50 baht a ride, or
100 baht for the less accessible destination
of Thong Nai Pan.
By boat
Boats cruise the bays with your snorkeling
gear until somewhere takes your fancy. The
round-the-island 6-hour boat trip is a great
way to see some of the best beaches in the
island, for around 500 baht/day.
What to see & do
See
Visit the beautiful waterfalls and lookouts
in the interior of the island.
The herbal sauna at Wat Pho is a great relief
after long party nights. It's near the 7/11
branch in Baan Thai, on the south-western
side of the island. Don't forget to leave
a donation, always wear a sarong (over your
bikini) - remember that you are on temple-territory
and locals find nudity offensive. This is
not a European sauna, sitting naked will
get you into trouble.
If you're into fire, you'll find spinners
and twirlers on many of the beaches, teachers
abund and poi are easy to find.
Do
Full Moon Party - if you're after
party heaven you can't do better than Haad
Rin, an expanded village of beach bars,
cheap chicken burgers, and low cut figure-hugging
outfits. It is most popular one night a
month - the night of the Full Moon Party.
Every bar is hopping, the beaches packed
with trance, dance, buckets, and various
other suspicious substances. However, if
the sight of thousands of bottles and other
trash repulses you, make sure you leave
the beach area before the sun comes up,
or grab a garbage bag and help tidy up a
little. If you're not on Ko Pha Ngan during
the full moon, don't worry: there are other
parties to be had, including Half Moon (2
times a month), Black Moon, Jungle Parties,
as well as the Shiva Moon party. There is
always something to do in Ko Pha Ngan.
Archery can be attempted at the "First
Bow and Arrow Archery" close to Chaloklum
on the road to Thongsala. Four archers can
have a go at the same time, people are very
friendly (German spoken during high season)
and helpful.
Hiking can be done all around the
island. There is a trail that leads between
Haad Rin and Haad Tien, which many enjoy
however the route can become difficult to
discern, and bringing enough water is necessary.
Muay Thai gyms such as "Jungle
Gym" in Haad Rin and Thong Sala offering
training and work out facilities, as well
as camps such as "Horizon" located
in Haad Tien (east) which is an intensive
training camp. There are also frequent matches
in Thong Sala and Haad Rin for spectators
who don't want to learn the sport.
Tantra Yoga is offered at Baan Tai,
and Shri Kali Ashram [1] offers casual classes
and teacher's training in the traditional
style of Shaivism.
Yoga is offered at multiple locations
including Agama Yoga, which is located in
the northwest of the island, and has month
long intensive courses.
Eat & Drink
Eat
For an authentic experience (and cheaper
than the well-decorated cafe/restaurants
by Haad Rin beach), look at the more modest
cafes where you might see some Thais eating.
The best area for authentic cheap eats
is defintely Thong Sala, the main town on
the island.
Me'n'u located 3 km outside of Thongsala
on the road to Haad Yao at Hin Kong offers
high end fine dining in a sublime tranquil
location.
Drink
Sheesha in Chaloklam offers a classy take
on the Thai bar, and is defintely worth
a look.